The average person in the UK comes into contact with synthetically dyed goods multiple times on a daily basis. They are in the clothes we wear, the bedding we sleep in, the cosmetics we apply to our faces, and the food we eat. These dyes are derived from petroleum and coal-tar, they promote the continued consumption of fossil fuels, and they are inherently unsustainable.
The global market for dyes and pigments is $38 billion (2022) and in the textiles sector alone, synthetic dye pollution accounts for 80% of the industry's total emissions \[Lellis-2019\]. Chemical dye effluent is dumped into waterstreams causing contamination, killing aquatic biota, damaging soil, and contaminating the food chain/drinking supply. Workers and local populations experience effects such as bladder-cancer, infertility, nervous-system disorders and rashes amongst many other side effects \[Khan,Malik,2018\]. Recent research shows wearers can experience skin-burns, asthma, auto-immune diseases and cumulative-toxicity with carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic effects \[Wicker,2023\].
The industry however has limited solutions and continues to rely on synthetic-dyes. There is an urgent need for a cost-effective and scalable solution which can rapidly tackle this vast problem.
**SAGES DYES**
SAGES create natural, biodegradable, non-polluting and non-toxic dyes derived from food-waste. We utilise UK food-waste streams such as onions skins, avocado pits, and red cabbages to extract vibrant dyes. These dyes can achieve the performance standards of synthetic dyes and are cost-effective.
To date, SAGES focus has predominantly been on the textiles market however we are facing growing demand from the paints, inks, packaging and cosmetics industry to adapt our solution to meet their needs. This project focuses on building out a commercialisation plan with a focus on licensing, completing market research in untapped markets where demand has already been identified, and gathering environmental impact data. This information will accelerate the pace at which we can scale and allow access into a wide variety of markets.
The textiles industry is the second most polluting in the world. Synthetic dye pollution is the silent culprit accounting for 80% of the industry's total emissions \[Lellis-2019\].
The global market for textile-dyes is £9.1billion (2022) with 98.5% of dyes being synthetic. These dyes are used in everything including clothing, accessories, furniture and bedding. They are derived from either coal-tar or petroleum-based intermediates \[Modor, 2023\] are inherently unsustainable, and wreak havoc on the environment and human health.
Chemical dye effluent is dumped into waterstreams causing contamination, killing aquatic biota, damaging soil, and contaminating the food chain/drinking supply. Workers and local populations experience effects such as bladder-cancer, infertility, nervous-system disorders and rashes amongst many other side effects \[Khan,Malik,2018\]. Recent research shows wearers can experience skin-burns, asthma, auto-immune diseases and cumulative-toxicity with carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic effects\[Wicker,2023\].
The industry however continues to rely on synthetic-dyes. This is attributable to the fact that alternatives have not been able to achieve the levels of **brightness**, **longevity** and **consistency** as synthetic-dyes.
Current alternatives are existing traditional natural dyes which are **inconsistent** and **expensive** due to their use of farmland, algae dyes, which **lack UV resistance** and have a **limited colour palette**, and microbial dyes, which are **complicated to integrate** and **pale in colour**.
These alternatives have not been able to satisfy industry needs and there is a desperate requirement for natural, biodegradable, and commercially-viable dyes.
**SAGES DYES**
SAGES create **natural, biodegradable, non-polluting** and **non-toxic** dyes **derived from food-waste**. We utilise UK food-waste streams such as onions skins, avocado pits, and red cabbages to extract vibrant dyes which can be used to colour textiles.
This project will see SAGES face its largest hurdle in combining lab-tested extraction/filtration methods into an end-to-end process, scaling from 100g/day lab-scale batches to commercial-scale quantities of 5kg/day.
This project aims to be a game-changing innovation that will redefine the world of sustainable fashion and coloration. Alice Simpson, The Technical Director of SAGES, a trailblazing natural dye company, will conduct innovative research, weaving together eco-consciousness and cutting-edge science to create a more colourful and sustainable future.
**ABOUT SAGES:**
SAGES is a pioneering start-up dedicated to revolutionising the fashion industry by offering natural textile dyes made from food-waste. Current synthetic dyeing practices account for a staggering 80% of the industry's emissions, and are made up of non-biodegradable chemicals that are toxic, mutagenic, carcinogenic, and highly polluting. While natural alternatives exist, they have struggled to gain traction due to their inability to meet industry standards for colorfastness, wash-fastness, and rub-fastness.
SAGES is the brainchild of two innovative female founders, both with extensive backgrounds in the fashion industry, who are on a mission to disrupt the £9.1bn global synthetic dye market and scale up their innovative natural dyes. Their research is assisted by expertise from Cranfield University and they are developing a range of six vibrant colours which are set to launch in early 2024\.
SAGES has received recognition and support for their novel work, including grants and funding from organisations such as the eBay Circular Innovators fund, the Greenhouse at Imperial College London, Cranfield Universities' Green Futures Investment Fund, Innovate UK and The Worshipful Company of Dyers.
They are committed to sustainability and environmental friendliness is at the heart of their mission. Their circular manufacturing process reduces CO2 emissions, conserves energy, and minimises waste, making SAGES a beacon of eco-innovation in the textile world.
**THE PROJECT:**
_Development of filtration process applicable to SAGES food-waste dyes allowing for greatly expanded industrial applications._
SAGES will enlist the help of Cranfield University, a previous collaborator, to develop an innovative filtration process for their novel food-waste dyes. Turning avocado pits, onion skins, and other food leftovers into a kaleidoscope of captivating colours that breathe life into the fashion industry and beyond.
The developed filtration process will further refine the current dyes by filtering out the undesirable sugars and proteins, leaving behind the desired colour-causing molecular pigments. The result will be a pure, potent, and versatile dye extract that can be applied for uses in various industries. From enhancing the visual feast on your dinner table with eco-friendly food colouring, to bringing life to sustainable plastics and cosmetics.
This project is a collaboration between SAGES, Osmose Studio and Cranfield University. The project will test and refining three different methods for the application of SAGES food-waste derived dyes to Osmose's mycelium-leather.
**THE NEED FOR A BIO-BASED LEATHER**
_**Traditional Leathers**_
Leather has a disastrous impact on the environment and human health. To meet the demands of the fashion industry, over 50 million animals are reared and killed per year to make leather \[Stella McCartney,2021\]; contributing to destruction of forestry for farmland and the release of methane into the environment. With the demand for leather expected to double from 2022-2030, there is a clear need for cleaner and more renewable leather sources \[Globenewswire,2022\].
Leather requires tanning and a common chemical used is chromium (III), which if oxidised becomes chromium (VI), a known toxin and carcinogen. Leather tanning also produces hazardous wastewater effluent, solid waste, air pollutants, and exposes workers to harmful chemicals \[EPA\]. Leather-tannery workers in Sweden and Italy, found cancer risks between 20% and 50% above those expected \[PETA\].
Currently, praised 'vegan-leathers' are predominantly polymer-based which do not biodegrade.
Osmose has developed a proprietary process for the creation of Mykko: a mycelium-based leather. In order to bring this to market and ensure biodegradeability, it is desirable for Mykko to come in a range of colours created using a bio-based dye.
_**Synthetic Dyes**_
Although dyes have been known to mankind since ancient times, it was not until the late nineteenth century that synthetic forms began to be manufactured, causing a range of human health issues including high incidence of bladder cancer \[Christie,2007\], diseases such as dermatitis and disorders of the central nervous system \[Khan & Malik,2018\].
Synthetics now dominate the dyeing industry. Toxic chemicals and heavy-metals are used during the dyeing process and make it difficult for waste-effluent to be effectively cleaned. This is a major problem in countries which still dominate the dyeing industry like China, Bangladesh, Thailand and Indonesia.
SAGES is a textiles industry start up making natural dyes from food-waste. These dyes are a bio-based solution to the harmful synthetic dyes the industry currently uses. 6 dye colours have been selected for further development in this project Pink, Yellow, Blue, Green, Coral, Purple.
**OUR SOLUTION**
SAGES will work with Osmose to test a range of dyeing applications to create a fully bio-based leather. Cranfield University has extensive knowledge in material innovation and will provide expertise on this project
This project is a collaboration between SAGES and Cranfield University. The project focuses testing and developing three different methods for the pre-treatment stage of the cellulose dyeing process.
SAGES is a textiles industry start up making natural dyes from food waste. These dyes are a natural, circular solution to the harmful synthetic dyes the industry currently uses. 5 dye colours have been selected for further development in this project Pink, Yellow, Blue, Green, Dark Purple.
_**The problem of synthetic dyes**_
Although dyes have been known to mankind since ancient times , it was not until the late nineteenth century that synthetic forms began to be manufactured, causing a range of human health issues including high incidence of bladder cancer, \[Christie, 2007\] and diseases such as dermatitis and disorders of the central nervous system \[Khan & Malik,2018\].
The Fashion Industry is now the second most polluting industry in the world and '80% of the total emissions' are caused by the liquid waste created during the dyeing process \[Lellis,2019\]. Toxic chemicals and heavy metals are used as pre-treatments and make it difficult for waste effluent to be effectively cleaned. This is a major problem in countries which still dominate the dyeing industry like China, Bangladesh, Thailand and Indonesia.
Natural textile dyes such as madder root and indigo can seem to be an obvious solution however these are rarely used commercially due to their inconsistencies in colour, and tendency to fade. In addition, they require farmland which could otherwise be used for food, to grow the raw materials they require.
SAGES dyes solve these problems that exist within the dyeing industry by creating natural dyes that:
1. Create minimal to no liquid waste
2. Are vibrant and resistant to fading
3. Use an environmentally friendly fixing agent and extraction methods
4. Use food waste as a resource